G231PUH driwing plan :http://www.zenoah.net/products/hobby/g231puh.html

  Engine tuning:  http://www.jeroentune.nl/index2eng.htm
Zenoah dynamotests: http://www.rctek.com/dyno/zenoah_g230rc_dyno_test.html Airfilters 
http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product10.html

Top mount assembly Use 4 metric bolts M5x10 mm. The plate is made to fit EXACTLY the hole diameter to ensure there is no gap around the holder. You have to use a bit of force to slide the support plate at the neck to the front of engine. If you have difficulties in fitting the engine mount properly, use sand paper to adjust the fit. Attention! 1) Don't use washers. The holder’s job is to keep the engine aligned to the clutch and stop the twisting forces when the engine accelerates. There are no axial forces to the plate. Don't forget to use red loctite. Tighten the bolts well and check this step twice. You won't have another chance to check the bolts are tight after the fan shroud is fitted. 2) Do not use other types of bolts other than hexagonal shown in the picture. They may have too high a head and will not allow you to mount the fan properly. Check the gap after the support is mounted by fitting the fan to the engine. The minimum clearance of 2 mm has to be there for a successful fit. Indicator time came up you can buy one nice here

Fan casing Use a simple saw and Dremmel. It should take a few minutes to prepare the fan shroud casing for the Zenoah engine. Some people suggest to use another brand of for this part i.e. Bergen or Xcell type because they are fibre glass and lighter. I don't really agree with this idea since the original raptor casing even when cut, still has an important role to keep the sides stiff and aligned. The material is soft and easy to cut. 1) Cut the legs and make bottom perfectly flat with sand paper. 2) Cut the front face - there is nice mark for it already. 3) Cut edges to angle 45 deg aprox 2 mm deep. 4) Create space for stiffener  bolt. 5) Post the engine with mounted front base plate and try if you can freely move the casing 2 mm front and 2 mm back from the middle point. This is very important point which allow you to set up the gear gap later. Compare the difference at  2 pictures above. 6) Look from the front - you should see how the edges copying  the engine ribs. The plastic should not touch the ribs and in contrary, there should not bee too big gap. If so, you  will loose some cooling air. Just make sure, that the casing is sliding at the  plate surface and not over the ribs. If so, the alignment of the engine will be impossible. .. Details how to make the space for bolt Take ruller and make line as picture show . Measure the head bolt height, add 0,5 mm and thats the quote for the gap depth.   Here is the result - test the gap by sliding the case ower the bolt head.

.	Buy  from Ebay the Eiffel heli universal  ballnacer  1) Measure the engine first to make sure you have equipment set properly, engine fitted well in bench and there is no problem with the bearings or shaft in case you are going to use used engine. Before this process take out the spark  plug - it helps to turn the engine shaft easy. 2) Than post the fan and use bolt with tapered-flatted bottom of head. This type of bolt helps a lot to align the fan at the cone. Bolt is 6x20 mm 3)Perfection is the key. The clutch balance and alignment is the most critical part of your install. If you fail here, the consequences will secure about this don't fly under any circumstance until you are sure about this area. 4) Dont get gready!!!:) DON"T get greedy! Fly 2 maybe 3 minutes, land shut off everything. Check all fasteners, servos, etc etc. put your finger on the cylinder head. It should be hot but not sizzle or burn your skin. If all is well hover or fly close in circles for 5 minutes. Land, shut everything off. Repeat above. Each time go a little longer and until you are certain all is good with the world stay somewhat close to the ground. Watch your clutch!! Make sure its still tight on the crank and not to hot.
	Tuned fan can help in hot areras or for people who would like to build kit. I'm building Auguta at this moment. Next manual will be about the process.  There are two options we can use  Lötterle: http://www.heli-chris.de/product_info.php?products_id=992 KASAMA:  http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/newproduct.cfm?product_id=1038 Material: 7075 T6 aircraft aluminum Quickuk: http://www.quickuk.eu/cat/thunder_tiger_parts/raptor_60_90_parts.html The links are examples how the fans looks like. Make sure you can reach the tapered hole fan  conversion. Ask if you have fan  -  I can help with..
.M6x20	Tight it ONLY firmly at this moment with no loctite. . If you tight the fan so much, you will have to use extractor to remove the fan in case is not properly aligned. Than use the dial clock again to measure the top of the fan.  If all OK, apply loctite to bolt, tide it very well with proper socket. Than post there the clutch and  measure again. Work carefully  and exactly. As better you make the aligement, than smoother will your engine run...
	To remove the fan never use hammer or other tool than proper extractor.
2xM4X10	Heawy duty clutch
	This is FAQ:  Should be even the run-in process done? How to mount the prop? Which size? A: Yes or not? It was my question to many gasser pilots. Mostly people says NO. But IMHO it is good to run the new engine on the stand with prop especially in case when you are new to gassers and you are not familiar withe the gasser engine. To mount the prop is so simple. Use 6 mm stud and mount prop sized around 15X8 exactly as you see on the picture. Yes, it is the fan what you find in conversion After all checked, you can start the engine and run very rich. I run all engines one hour, thing enough to make sure all is OK.
	Click for bigger picture please. All what you get with cobversion is mounted.
	Middle of building..

st one notice about the difference on the supports. As you can see at the picture, one is shorter with thread on the middle and second is longer with no threat. So the shorted going back to support plate, the longer to engine ribs..

Pinion 12 main gear  91. Do not forget to use the bussines card strip when gluing the clutch liner. The gasser is running at lower RPM than the glow engine. The clutch have to be more tided.  91:12 will yield a 7.58 ratio. If you ran the engine at 11000 it would yield a headspeed of 1450RPM which is quite low but may work for your AP. If you wind the headspeed up to 1500 your engine will be turning 11,375. Doable but I would avoid going any higher.

Problem sorted picture from the hardest servo test here - as you can see on the picture, i posted all servos directly inside the coil HF cable loop  - Futaba S3001 not even chicken dancing servo gets frozen - Sanwa 102 exactly same rubbish as S3001 - Futaba 9253 - hard kicks but servo always return quickly in proper position Cyclone S001 and JR NES 511 ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC - I can turn the servo wire around the coil cable or even touch the source coil, no problem. The servo is absolutely resistant keeping his torque and moving exactly in same way like the engine stooped. And what made me most upset?? The 9202 and 9252 same result as 3001 Mad mad mad!! I use this servos mostly like probably most people here... Going to use the NES 511 33*1*39mm for engine 45g 0.26sec/60°(4.8V) 3.5kgĄcm(4.8V) Cyclone S001 for pitch elev ailer Model : S001 Weight 42 gr. Torque : 4.0 Kg/cm2 Speed (6V.) : 0.18 sec / 60? let see

Recomendations ACE servos

GV -1 setup

1. Do plug in the third wire on the gear switch or another switch so you can always turn off/on the gv-1 if needed in flight, for example to check throttle curves matching gv-1 settings or mixture on the engine.

2. Make sure stick switch is enabled (disabled by default), this allows the throttle hold to disable the gv-1 when you hit it. will help with overspeeding (make it more gasser friendly).

Check your setup with the SWCD screen which will tell you if the gv-1 is ON or OFF. In normal mode it should go on as you raise the throttle past 1/3 stick. In idle up 1 and 2 it should be on all the time (if you are using 100, 35, 30, 35, 100 throttle curve for example. If at any time in any flight mode you move the gear switch the gv-1 should toggle to off. Also if at any time you hit throttle hold in any flight mode it should also go off. Make sure your travel limits are set (idle limit screen) so the gv-1 know where idle is and where full throttle is. You can check this

4. Since you are not using a generator as an added battery failsafe dying. This will give you a 2 minute warning to land before the RX battery dies.

Hope this helps,
Source here: http://runryder.com/helicopter/t280626p1/?p=2181425&top=1166593357&highlight=rbort#RR
Hidden Menu at GV-1

Hold both + and - down while turning on the power. These are the ones one the left used to change screens, not the +/- on the right used to change values of parameters. The last option in the hidden menu is Reset which will return your GV-1 to "new out of the box" in case you screw up some settings and forget what they were. If you do that it will ask you to set idle limits when you power up just like it did when you first plugged it in.

Incidentally, spoke with Joe Howard about mounts, said he *should* have something for the vario when he comes back from the scale FF down in Georgia on September 12th. I know you asked me a LONG time ago, its been a while but he did give some possibility of them being done, I hope it will finally be true!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Battery indicator - good idea of Raja: ) 

Exhaust
Torpedo V3 Gasser Tuned Muffler

Buy Dubro tubing or simillar 

About paying full upfront, 
- money tranfer by IBAN 
- via Western Union 

300 conversion +200 to build 
Total conversion 500

http://www.davesmotors.com/store/product1752.html here 285 + 80 shipping 
Motor PUH 231 total 360

The gymbal is better to buy profi  one but if you want I can try 

Totoal body converted to gasser R60  USD:1560 
Totoal body converted to gasser R90  USD:1760 
+ shipping  to you 100USD. 

Recommneded electronic
Servo 
Stator gator + Governor 
Gyro +Tail servo

There need to be changed the clutch to R90 3D heavy duty and stiffener ring at the clutch – so it will be around 1000 USD… 
 

	Augusta

The builders
 

Fixit

Look here for Fixit galerry

 
 

 
  I tested to put the Revmax I had sitting on my shelf to work. It's really simple to use the hall effect sensor, I mounted it exactly like the Model Avionics site suggests by cutting one of the mount plates in half and thus creating an L shaped bracket. I bolted it to one of the 4mm holes on the side of the engine that wasn't being used, and voila, it pulses once per revolution. Very simple solution. 
http://www.heliproz.com/jockey.html

Cheap servos
HD-7150MG
Model: HD-7150MG
Voltage: 4.5v~7.2v
Speed: .19sec
Torque: 7.2kg/cm
Bearings: 2BB
Gears: Metal
Weight: 49g
Size: 40x20x37mm
http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6335