At the end of day clutch started to loose power. I have added bit more
of fuel to let the clutch completely eat the clutch liner.
I'm very happy of the result. This is the way how the clutch liner should
be terminated, replaced by another and lets go fly again. This is
prove of the stiff construction and no vibrations around the clutch area.
When i mounted the clutch. it was there les then 1/4 or regullar amount
of material. So, I had two options: The construction is bad and the
clutch will be destroyed, or the rest of material of clutch
liner will be used in proper way. The result can can bee seen
clearly. Lets go change the clutch liner. Experts can close the window
now:) 
On the picture you can see 3 tricks:
1) Post the clutch liner exactly on the middle of clutch bell
- not to deep, not to close to the top. Use 1mm thick washers to
secure the bottom distance when you press inside another spare clutch who
plays like mold.
2) As you see on picture, the clutch have around transparent tape. This
have two functions. First is separator and second is gap creator. If you
use only separated clutch body like the mold, you will have to press the
original bell inside as well and you will have no chance to start
the engine.
3) Use the 3mm bolts to be ready for case when the clutch-mould dont
want to go out of the bell when the epoxy glue is dry. 
And here is it: Liner glued by proper epoxy - I dont trust 20 min or 60
minutes epoxy. I use normal laminating epoxy and leave it dry overnight
use players and try to remove the clutch. Sometimes works, sometimes not.
In case not - you have to make small extractor. 
Result here. Just remove the washers mount it back and lets go fly.